Please use the comments facility below to submit updates to chapter 12 (Toamasina and the Northeast) of Madagascar (10th ed).
To comment on other chapters visit the main Madagascar Updates page.
Please use the comments facility below to submit updates to chapter 12 (Toamasina and the Northeast) of Madagascar (10th ed).
To comment on other chapters visit the main Madagascar Updates page.
Laura said,
22 January 2012 at 1:11 pm
Tamatave/Toamasina
I having been living and doing research (on contemporary urbanization and migration) in the city of Tamatave since 2008, and thought I would send along some updates and new options for this under-appreciated city!
What to see and do in town:
The regional tourism office has a new website: http://tamatave-tourisme.com/ They are still located in the Blvd Joffre location as listed in the guidebook. Be sure to check in with them as there are several local festivals to the north and south of Tamatave that are well-worth a visit!
In addition to the items listed in the 10th edition of the guidebook, I would like to suggest the following:
- Alliance Francaise: 13 Blvd Paul Doumer, Tel 53 334 94 or 033 15 325 86 Email aftamve@moov.mg
They frequently hold concerts, art exhibitions, and lectures, have classes (French, dance, yoga, etc), and a book and media library which short-term travelers can borrow from for a small fee. There is also a buvette (snack bar) in the back, which has been amazingly decorated by a Belgian artist who has been living and working in Madagascar for over 20 years and merits a visit in itself!
- Musée du Port: located in the Ampasimazava neighborhood at the ending points of Blvd Ratsimalaho and Blvd d’Ivondro (also known as Route des Hydrocarbures) just inside the main port entrance. The museum exhibit details the history of Toamasina (the city and its port) as well as a small section devoted to local culture. Recommended for history buffs, due to an impressive collection of old black and white photos of Toamasina from the 1800s and 1900s.
- Historical Tour of Old Tamatave: A local historical society was created by Mme Francoise of Eastern Tours, in an effort to raise awareness and encourage protection of the city’s old buildings, many dating from the colonial era in the early 1900s. A historical tour can be done in two ways. Contact Mme Francoise directly for a guided tour by foot or cyclo-pousse (Tel 0321156631 or 5331579, Email fortin.chan@moov.mg). Or, buy a small guidebook at the Fakra bookstore or the regional tourism office (both on Blvd Joffre) for a self-guided tour.
Excursions out of town:
- Ile aux Prunes and other island adventures: Maitsomanga is a locally-operated company that organizes excursions to the nearby islands off the coast of Tamatave. The easiest island to reach is Ile Aux Prunes, just a 30-minute boat ride from the port, where you can snorkel, climb the lighthouse (the tallest in Africa!), observe the large fruit-bag colony, swim and picnic. From the end of June to mid September, whale-watching can also be arranged, which can be observed from the boat and the lighthouse. (You’d be amazed how many whales one can see so close to Madagascar’s biggest port!) Other islands to the south of Tamatave can also be visited: Ile aux Sables (1 hour), Nosy Dombala (1.5 hours), where the main attraction is snorkeling and swimming, as well as observation of birds that have taken over a small sandbar and grounded ship hull. Contact: Tel: 034 66 328 69 / 033 12 035 49 Email maitsomanga@gmail.com Website: https://sites.google.com/site/maitsomanga
(Note: the html link about this company in a previous post is incorrect!)
Getting Around:
Taxis should cost 3000 Ariary around town or 4000 Ariary if you go on a dirt/sand road (lalampasika) during the day. Rates for the evening will cost an additional 1000. Expect to pay more if you go to one of the beachside hotels in the north, or to the airport (or if you are exiting a fancy hotel or restaurant!)
Almost all people now use cyclo-pousse instead of the traditional hand-pulled pousse-pousse. A one-way trip will cost between 1000 and 2000 depending on how far you go.
Hotel/Restaurant:
- Hotel Melville (1784 Route Melville, Mangarivotra Nord on the road that goes to Tana) Tel 53 331 80 or 032 07 331 80 or 033 07 331 80 or 034 07 331 80 Email hotelmelville@orange.mg
A recently expanded and renovated hotel with rooms to cater to all budgets: 20000 Ariary for a room with a fan, hot water and no windows, up to 50000 Ariary for a room with satellite tv, A/C, hot water, and window. All rooms have private toilets. Some larger family-sized rooms. Some parking in front of the hotel (though not fenced in). Located on the grounf floor is a good-value restaurant with a mixture of Malagasy, Chinese, and International dishes. (The zebu tail with peanuts (rambonkena sy voanjo) is amazing!) There is also a small but neat cybercafé on the ground floor.
Shopping:
- Wu Chao Ying (Corner of Blvd Augagneur and , just up the street from the Alliance Francaise): Tel 53 923 08 Shown on the map in the guidebook but with no text description.
They have a large selection of food and drink similar to what you will find at Score or Shoprite, as well as various household and camping goods that may be useful for expeditions (snorkeling equipment, stoves and grills, flashlights, rain boots and jackets, etc).
- Score: In addition to the location on the Avenue de l’Independence, there is also another Score located in Bazar Kely just across the street from the Hotel de Police.
Daniel Austin said,
24 October 2011 at 3:10 pm
An update from Marcia Rooker & George Siemensma:
In 1999 we visited for the first time Madagascar, armed with your guide. To cut a long story short, we live in Toamasina since a few years, where we run Project Lambahoany.
Last week we had friends from Amsterdam visiting and they showed us the latest edition of your guidebook. As we always recommend your book, we would like to supply you with some possible updates for your guidebook/website, more specifically the pages concerning Toamasina.
- Getting there
We always suggest people take the Vatsy. It leaves at 8 a.m. and 17:30 p.m. sharp, both from Tana and Toamasina. At night it is a touring car, much more comfortable than the normal taxi-brousse; during the day time they have minibuses, most are also larger and more comfortable than the usual taxi-brousses. There office in Tana is about 300 metres uphill from the Tamatave taxi-brousse station in Ambodivona.
- Where to stay
Upper range
Toamasina has 2 new up market hotels: Java, with the Le Verseau restaurant on Blv Joffre (javahotelmg@gmail.com, 034 12 252 53) and Calypso, off Blv Augagneur.(Rue Ltn Noël – http://www.hotelcalypso.mg)
Mid-Range
Kenzo/Auberge des Iles has closed down
Budget
National is now a shop that sells tiles and toilets
Beach Hotels and bungalows
Ravinala has a new owner and is now known as Ocean’501, very good restaurant!
La Croisette, off the road, little north of the Airport: bungalows, restaurants, swimming pool (no contact info- sorry)
Where to eat
Piment Banane has moved, now to be found off Blv Joffre, near the ORTT office.
Mora Mora has a new owner, it is now called Le Métis, Malagasy and Vazaha food
Don Camillo has closed down
Gastro Pizza can be found near a) the Bazary Kely, b) next to/ part of the Bateau Ivre, c) in the town centre
New:
Restaurant le Palais des Iles, Blv Augagneur, tsarislang@moov.mg, 032 77 356 13 upmarket
Shopping
Several new shops on the Blv Joffre and around the Bazary Be, selling t-shirts and other touristy-items.
Bicycle hire – closed
What to see and do
There are actually three museums in Tamatave;
- Harbour Museum (Musée du port) next to the entrance of the harbour. Lots of information about the history of the harbour and the town, illustrated mainly with pictures, well maintained
- University Museum (mentioned in your guide as the Regional Museum)
- Museum of Art and Culture, on the rue Sylvain Roux near la place Bien Aimé à Ampasimazava
There is a third market: apart from the Bazary Be and the Bazary Kely there is the floating market on the Pangalanes Canal
What else
- Whale spotting with Maitso Manga. Trip includes visiting Ile aux Prunes to swim, picnic, climb the light house and spot the bats (flying foxes) (https://sites.google.com/site/maitsomanga501-Tamatave; email: maitsomanga@gmail.com, tel. 034- 66 328 69 (English spoken)
- Melissa Express: boat service between Toamasina, Ste Marie, Manana Nord, Maroantsetra, once a week, only if the weather permits; melissaexpress1@gmail.com; Tel Tamatave: 032-02 073 64
And finally us: Project Lambahoany
We understand that some satisfied customers have already written to you.
- Our main goal is to develop ecotourism in the commune Fetraomby, north-west of Brickaville. Thus the villagers have a complementary source of income and a good reason to protect the forest. We co-operate with RIANALA, the association of villagers. There are basic tourist facilities in the villages along the treks. Until now Rianala has developed five different treks, from a simple 3 day trek with lots of culture to a demanding 5 day trek with lots of nature (at the very least Varecia and Indri-indri). It is really off the beaten track; especially with the Sauvage trek you will visit villages where they see vazaha about once a year.
We can always adapt the trek to personal preferences. Groups (1 – 6 persons) will be accompanied by a French or English speaking guide. 82% of the price for a trek will go directly to the villagers, rest is for the guide and transport and service charges.
(We also have a project in Fetraomby to improve the agriculture and to better preserve the forest)
- We also can organise a visit to Andasibe, Andranokoditra (Pangalanes Canal), Ile Ste Marie, and a very non-touristic tour around Antsirabe.
- In Toamasina we have Centre Lambahoany, 6 bungalows with two double beds and bathroom, breakfast service, bar; large garden with lychee and other fruit trees, very quiet. Now and then cultural events (music and dance), and local people can attend classes at the Centre: English conversation, meditation, capoeira, poekoelan (Indonesian martial art), chess, and latino dance. Guests are welcome to watch or join.
We speak Malagasy, French, English, German, Dutch, and Portuguese.
Website: http://www.lambahoany.org,
Email: coopmargas@yahoo.fr
Tel 034-01 149 10; 032- 71 938 69
Centre Lambahoany, Tanamakoa
Blv de la Liberté/Rue de Lisle de Comte (near Le Metis, formerly known as Mora Mora) 800 metres from the coach station, off the road to the airport, 500 metres from the beach.
Hope we have been of service providing you with this information, and please do not hesitate to contact us with any question you may have.
Steve C said,
6 September 2011 at 6:34 pm
Maroantsetra:
Baguette d’Or is not on the main street, but on a side street. As you are heading towards the airport from La Pagode, take the first right after Chez Tantine. It is about a block down on the right
Florida is a pretty popular restaurant on the right side of the street as you walk towards the river between Country Informatique and the BOA.
Nosy Mangabe:
You can actually arrange everything through the MNP office (boat, guide, etc.). I’m not sure that you necessarily need a tour operator’s help anymore, especially if you have all your own camping equipment. Note that night walks are no longer officially allowed in Nosy Mangabe (or inside the boundaries of any other national park); however, it seems some guides will still do them “off the books” when asked (apparently one guide was caught feeding animals in a national park and MNP shut down all night walks).
MNP has constructed huts on Nosy Mangabe with plans to put beds in them by the end of September. Not sure how much they will cost. Facilities are quite nice at the camp site with 2 showers and 2 flush toilets.
Current pricing (Sept 2011):
Boat: 100,000 Ar (cost can roughly be split among multiple passengers) 30,000 Ar per night waiting
Entrance: 10,000 for one night, 15,000 for two nights
Guide: 35,000 per night 15,000 for the last partial day
Tent site: 5,000 per night
Guide food: 6,000 per night
You can coordinate with guide to cook with him if you do not have your own stove. Or you can hire a cook and bring him/her with you (they can also purchase the food).
For those arriving on Saturday from Tana with AirMad, the park office is open till about 11 AM and is closed on Sunday, so get your permit and guide that morning if you want to head out on Sunday.
Annah Peterson said,
3 February 2011 at 10:06 pm
I just finished service as a Peace Corps volunteer in Antalaha and worked in a beautiful 10-hectare nature reserve called Macolline (“my hill” in french) just 3 km north of the city and open for tourism. This reserve contains flora and fauna similar to the big national parks (marojejy and masoala), but offers a more relaxed adventure for all tourists young and old. For about 30,000 Ar you can not only visit the reserve with stunning views of the river and ocean, but also go on a canoe ride and visit the local brick-making installation and nearby rice fields to get a real feel for malagasy culture. You will have a snack of all the different fruits of Macolline overlooking the river and then hike across to the other side of the reserve for a picnic lunch (grilled zebu and coconut rice with banana chips) overlooking the indian ocean. I have travelled around Madagascar and honestly have yet to find a site as beautiful as Macolline.
During my time as a Peace Corps volunteer, i took a number of tourists out on the circuit, along with Be Lucien, the malagasy guide who can name every plant species in Macolline. There is no doubt that everyone really enjoyed the experience. Its a wonderful day trip that all who make it to the SAVA area should do. The woman who owns the reserve (and also the pharmacy in town), Marie Helene, really knows how to make a successful ecotourist site. She typically meets with all the tourists and ensures they have a wonderful experience. She is also very receptive to suggestions and requests.
For information, email macolline.madagascar@gmail.com, go to the website (both open but still under construction) sites.google.com/site/tongasoamacolline (english) or sites.google.com/site/macollinemadagascar (french), or call +261 32 07 161 01.
Paul Öfner said,
12 January 2011 at 12:35 pm
October 2010 we explored Madagascar with this guide. In Toamasina we stayed in “Centre Lambahoany”( http://www.madagascar-tourist.com/). Their accomodation consists of 6 bungalows (suited for up to 4 persons), clean with toilet and shower and reliable mosquito nets for a very reasonable price (40.000Ar per night per bungalow). The Centre is situated on Boulevard de la Liberté, a ten minutes walk from the coach station (gare routière) as well as from the town center.
There is a bar where, apart from drinks and snacks, you can have a European/ French or a delicious traditional Malagasy breakfast (“varimenanana“). The place is run by an idealistic Dutch couple, that mostly stays in the background. The Centre functions at the same time as a cultural center for the citizens of Toamasina and as a promotor of nature preservation by propagating alternatives for the traditional slash-and-burn agriculture, the biggest menace for the rain forest. They cooperate with a network of local village organisations in the forests, west, upstream, from Brickaville, where they introduce ecotourism as a new source of income for those isolated villages. They offer different tours from 3 to 5 days by pirogue and hiking. The three of us did a tour of 5 days accompanied by a guide of the Centre and once in the forest completed with local guides who know the flora and fauna and who don’t get lost in the jungle. Accomodation in the villages is simple but clean. Apart from the impressive nature it was an unforgetible unique experience to be the guest of Malagasy families, participating in their daily routine deep in the rain forest. For further details see: http://www.madagascar-tourist.com/tours-2/trekkings/
Pablo & Itziar said,
6 August 2010 at 1:58 pm
CHAPTER 13: ILE SAINTE MARIE
Moving around,
Rental, prices per day:
Bicycle: 8.000-10.000
Scooter: 30.000
Motorbike: 40.000
Taxi-brousse: 3.000 for the vazaha, 2.000 for the locals
Pirogue to Ile Aux Nattes: 2.000 per person, per way, including bicycle or personal objects (rucksack, etc.) Locals: 500.
Where to stay
In Ambodifotatra:
La Polina: along the main road, north direction, opposite restaurant La Bigorne. Located by the sea, with a small garden, the 6 unactractive rooms have seen better days, but are very well kept and clean and are one of the cheapest option in town. Toilet ensuit and hot water (electric tank), mosquito nets. 25.000 ar.
Le Zinnia Hotel is probably well priced and located, but being just next to the Jirama (electricity generators) is terribly noisy 24 hours a day. These generators can be heard all around town, so trying to sleep next to them must be hard job…
South of Ambodifotatra:
Le Mangoustan: located on the village of Mahavelo (4km from Ambodifotatra) is probably the cheapest option in the south part of the island. Location is very good: nice and clean beach. The village is pleasant and offers some restaurants/gargotte and bicycle rental. Bungalows have three levels of price: 12.000, 20.000 and 25.000 ar depending on size, location and number of beds. You get what you pay for: basic accomodation in tached bungalows (all with ensuit facilities, cold water only), all a bit rundown but very economical. Mosquito nets supplied. Pleasant and decent restaurant.
Where to eat
In the market and streets around delicious french style bread is sold. It is a great option for those preparing picnic. Locals eat it for breakfast, either with margarine or condensed milk. By far, the best bread we ate in Madagascar.
In Ambodifotatra:
La Bigorne: Very good food, big portions, well assorted, all at very good price. Nice surroundings. What else to ask for?
Le Banane: Chic and more expensive than others, the food is good though. Loads of vazaha hang out there.
P’tit Chez Vous: About one kilometre north of town, set on a beautiful mangrove, it offers above the average food (both quality and price wise) that make worth the visit. Very pleasant decoration, with local artifacts. French owner was very attentive.
Le bar du Quai: Simple, basic, unattractive and expensive restaurant, close to the taxi stand, opposite the information office. We would not repeat there.
South of Ambodifotatra:
Le Plaisirs (20 32 46 26 944): small and family run business. No more than 4 tables. Beautifuly set on the beach front, the terrace enjoys excelent sunset views. Simple, unpretencious, cosy restaurant offering few fresh dishes from the sea (no more than 2 or 3 daily, such as fish, prawns, calmar, cigals and langouste) chicken and beef. The owner Charlin was extremelly pleasant and enthusiastic about his food and business. Great homemade coco punch and banana flambé.
There is a third diving centre, Mahery be, located in Antevibe, between Hotels Soanambo and Lakana. The owner David is a good professional and probably knows the island better than anyone: he has been living and diving here for 16 years. Smaller and slightly cheaper business that the two others in town, the material is in good condition as well as the boat. One dive: 87.500ar. Forfaits available. They offer as well whale watching and fishing trips (032 04 757 77, maherybe@live.fr, http://www.maherybe.com)
Le Lemurien Palmé Dive Center is under new management. The new owner is Eric, a well trained French dive instructor, extremelly enthusiastic and very serious about his job.
Boats:
They all depart at 6am from Ste. Marie.
From Soanierana-Ivongo, the fast ones depart at 10 am, and Le Dolphin slightly later, around 11-12 am.¬
Cap Sainte Marie: 60.000ar
Sainte Marie Tours/Gasytour: 60.000ar
Le Tropicana: 50.000ar
Le Dolphin: 35.000/40.000ar: The slower but cheaper. Took 3 hours to get to Sainte Marie and to get back.
Pablo & Itziar said,
6 August 2010 at 1:57 pm
MAHAMBO
Really quiet and chilled placed. Excellent beaches.The town itself is located along the main road but the most interesting hotels are along the beach, about 2 kilometres walk from town (where taxi-brousses stop) Appart from chilling out, some local guides offer trips in pirogue along a nearby river.
Not mentioned in the 2007 edition, this is one of the best surf spots in the eastern coast. There are two surf shops: Pil Pil Manga and Summer Sessions (located in Ylang-Ylang Hotel). They are both surf school and rent boards, both for surf and bodyboard.
There are two main surfing spots: one opposite the hotel Le Pirogue, where surf breaks on shallow water and coral reef: only for advanced surfers. The other spot is a beach 500 metres south from town, more suitable for begginers and medium surfers. Try to avoid low tide surf there.
The guide mentions nasty sandflies, but during our three-day visit on June we did not see them around.
Where to stay
Luckily, all the hotels, regardless of their price, have mosquito nets. Electricity operates from dusk for about three hours in most of them.
Most cheap hotels are located along the sand road heading to the beach, before arriving to it. Amongst them are (in order as you find them along the main road):
- Chez Sandrina: Wooden bungalows. Shared toilet and shower. Cold water. Nice garden. 20.000 ar.
- Urich: Well kept and cosy wooden bungalows. Toilet and shower ensuite. Cold water. 15.000-20.000 ar.
- Zanatany: Cosy wooden bungalows. Toilet and shower ensuite. Cold water. 20.000 ar.
- Ylang-Ylang: A notch up in quality. Set facing a nice garden, the bungalows are larger and better kept than the others in the same street. 20.000 ar.
A bit more expensive are the ones directly on the beach.
South from the main road:
- La Pirogue: probably the best (and most expensive) in town, offering bungalows and rooms set in a wonderful and well kept garden. Attentive staff. Direct access to the beach. Hot water. Bungalows from 68.000ar. Rooms from 40,000ar. They also have a car, so pick up from the main road probably can be arranged.
- Le Dola: right next door to La Pirogue, offers double bungalows for 30.000ar. The location is also beautiful, on the beach, but the bungalows are characterless and all very close to each other. The owner was very attentive, though. Hot water provided with buckets.
Norht from the main road
- Le Recif: seems to be closed.
- Les Orchidees: Our pick of the bunch, with no doubt. Location was perfect, right on the beach. The 6 bungalows were set in a beautiful garden, with palm trees, plants and great lawn to lay down to enjoy and rest listening the waves break. The 3 smaller bungalows (up to 3 people) with bathroom ensuit were built in traditional style and the three larger ones (up to 5 people) in stone. We would have stayed here forever. Price 25.000ar for 2 people bungalows, and 35.000ar for 4 people ones. Great value for money. Note it is not easy to find as it is not clearly signed posted, but it is only 500 metres from town along the beach (or along the road that starts left at Le Zanatany Restaurant).
Where to eat
When we visited, business was so slow and so few tourists were in town, that it was advisable to order meals in advance so they could buy the available food (mainly fish and seafood).
- Urich: Very simple but cosy restaurant located on the main street. Food was the best and more consistent of the ones we tried.
- Zanatany: As well, simple restaurant, located a few metres down the street. The one that had more products available although the preparations were not as good as the others.Interesting dishes such as Coconut Ravitoto Octopus. They also had eel on the menu, a rare find. Good for people watching while waiting.
- Les Orchidees: Located at the Hotel, it is a beautiful and quiet spot. Food was good too but it was a must to order in advance.
How to get there
Frequent taxi-brousses from Toamasina drop you off on the main road on their way to Fenerive East. It takes 1:30-2 hours, 5.000-6.000 ar.
MAROJEJY NATIONAL PARK
Even if we are sure that Eric Mathiew and Bruno Lee would organise both a very good and knowlodgeable visit to the Park, we think it would be very interesting to stress that it is one of the easiest parks to visit without any prior arrangements and does not need to book through any agency.
We showed early in the morning at the ANGAP office (from Andapa, in taxi-brousse) and the well organised staff there arranged in a few minutes a good english speaking guide and a porter, for a 1N/2D visit to the park.
You can pay a little extra (3.000ar/day) in order to be able to use the charcoal and to cook in the camp. There are pans and pots as well as plates and cuttlery for guests to use.
The camps are cleaned twice a week by a women cooperative in charge of changing used sheets and blankets and cleaning the bungalows.
It is possible to leave a rucksack or any useless or heavy objects in the office, for free. They register clearly all the objects left in order to keep trackof everything kept under their responsability.
It is important also noting that there are no food supplies in Manantenina (were the Angap office is) so bring you own supplies from Sambava or Andapa (both are very well stocked).
On return the staff helped us to stop the taxi-brousse, that, normally, is full and overloaded from collecting people in previous villages.
Eric MATHIEU said,
13 February 2011 at 9:13 am
Just a few words to say that it’s very easy to organize the trip to Marojejy on your own, and going through our services will never be an obligation, we are here to promote the area and help as much as possible. And we encourage people to come, we need more and more people to help villagers, people working in the park and save this incredible place, full of unique wildlife.