Please use the comments facility below to submit updates to chapter 16 (The West) of Madagascar (10th ed).
To comment on other chapters visit the main Madagascar Updates page.
Please use the comments facility below to submit updates to chapter 16 (The West) of Madagascar (10th ed).
To comment on other chapters visit the main Madagascar Updates page.
Kris & Helaine Cadman said,
15 February 2012 at 8:47 pm
Ankarafantsika: The accommodation was by far the most expensive of our trip (100,000AR/night) and at the lowest end for cleanliness. The first bungalow had a broken toilet seat (half the seat was missing) with sharp edges while the second had no toilet seat at all. The staff thought it amusing that we did not accept these. The third had a toilet seat, but it was obvious the room had not been cleaned for some time. We had to ask for toilet paper and towels at reception and were told if we wanted any cleaning done, we had to arrange it with the “femme de chambre” ourselves.
We were assigned a guide, Romain, who was very pushy and irritating. It did not seem possible to change him for another guide. One climb was difficult in places as cattle had destroyed one of the paths at its steepest point. Serious faults in guiding included scaring a kingfisher away by getting the boat too close in spite of our protests and injuring/killing two different species of butterflies while attempting to open their wings with a stick, again against our protests. We did report this to the receptionist who said he would deal with the matter, but…we are worried about standards at this park.
The best wildlife viewing was at our bungalow which the Coquerel’s sifakas visited on each of two afternoons. There is also a birdwatching tower which we found for ourselves. A massive breeding colony of cattle egrets is there with some glossy ibis. We also saw two more species of lemur which came to inspect us closely when we climbed the viewing tower.
Miandrivazo: The route from Tana to Morondava via Miandrivazo had only a few hundred metres left to tar in November, but a short section outside Miandrivazo toward Tana has bad potholes. Hotel Akory Aby, Ampanasana (Telephone: 0204494265 or 033 19 166 91) 30,000AR very basic en suite bungalow with friendly staff. We ate at a Malagasy cafe one night and at Baobab Hotel on the way back where the food was good (but the rooms are not good value).
Morondavo: Bourganvilliers 44,000AR very poor value with very poor bed and pushy owner so we did not eat here, but at Campannina where we had an excellent dinner and the owner was very welcoming.
Kirindy Reserve: Bungalow 52,000AR We had a warm welcome at Kirindy where someone asked us what we would like to do and how long we had for activities. Our guide was quietly spoken and loved his work. We had a problem with the researchers (the reverse of problems mentioned in the guide about Ranomafana where tourists apparently caused problems to researchers). The arrogant research students had an unacceptably loud birthday party into the small hours, disturbing the sleep of several tourists from many parts of the world. We have had a written apology from their supervisor so hopefully this will not happen again. It caused us to regrettably cut short our visit to this fascinating park.
Putu Madisha said,
10 January 2012 at 7:59 am
Mahajanga Town – Tour Guide
MR RAZAFIARISON, Marcel Yvon. I met Yvon while he was working at Hotel Soanambo on Ile Sainte-Marie. He was friendly, efficient and helpful. Yvon is starting his own tour guide company in Mahajanga. You can contact him on:
Email: razmaryvon@yahoo.fr
Phone: +261 33 23 043 95 / +261 34 64 483 07
Bryan Pready said,
10 December 2011 at 3:41 pm
Ankarafantsika – camp site
Pitches OK but your description of showers and toilets as “nice” is rather generous! On recent visit, all but one shower, and most of the toilets were locked and keys couldn’t be obtained because office closed. Lights and water went off at 10 p.m. and didn’t come back on until 6:30 a.m. (That may not sound late but it is when it’s been light since 4:30 a.m. and you’re planning to set off into the Park at 7:00 a.m.)
Steve C said,
2 September 2011 at 3:24 pm
The Renala in Morondava is really quite nice and affordable (more mid-range in price). 30,000 Arirary for a room with ensuite hot shower and toilet. Bungalows are around 55,000. The restaurant, as mentioned in the guidebook, is quite good. This was in August of 2011.
It is difficult to try to join a tour to Tsingy after arriving in Morondava. You can hire a 4×4 and driver, but I was unable to find any scheduled tours to join. Most operators had pre-arranged bookings from Tana (and maybe Antsirabe) that were private.
In the Grand Tsingy, the Andamozavaky circuit is currently listed as a 4-hour circuit that costs 40,000 Ar. It can be connected to a second circuit (3 hours, 30,000 Ar) via a 1 hour tour through caves (the Broadway, 30,000 Ar). Total for the full day could be 100,000 Ar in guide fees in addition to the park entrance fee. The circuits will take about half the listed times if you are reasonably fit.
Agreed, RN 34 between Malaimbandy and Miandrivazo is in good shape minus some areas where the asphalt has serious potholes. Taxi brousse still took almost 12 hours to Antsirabe due to various stops and waiting. Was able to pay 30,000 Ar for a nice van with only 3 rows behind the driver. Pretty comfy.
Steve C said,
6 September 2011 at 6:09 pm
The taxi brousse I mentioned was from Morondava to Antsirabe.
Kirindy’s bungalows are 32,000 Ar for shared facilities (no “shower” as stated in the guidebook – there are two stalls where you can bring a bucket and use the tap). Dorm prices had gone up to around 25 or 27 thousand. 2 hour day walk is 12,000 and 2 hour night walk is 20,000. Entrance fee is 20,000 for up to 3 days.
Daniel Austin said,
9 March 2011 at 11:29 am
Tsingy de Bemaraha:
Vazimba Hotel: 15 bungalows in 3ha grounds, also offering restaurant, swimming pool and vehicle hire. (mob 033 08 799 48 or 033 08 620 59; email hotel@vazimbahotel.mg; http://www.vazimbahotel.mg)
Sonja Aebersold said,
5 May 2010 at 1:14 pm
RN34 Miandrivazo-Malaimbandy
I was there in April and the street is absolutely fabulous! Around Malaimbandy there is still about 10km of white road, but in good condition and the works are in progress, so in the near future it will be asphalted too.
In addition in Miandrivazo there is a Galana with diesel!