Please use the comments facility below to submit updates to chapter 9 (The South) of Madagascar (10th ed).
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Please use the comments facility below to submit updates to chapter 9 (The South) of Madagascar (10th ed).
To comment on other chapters visit the main Madagascar Updates page.
Parisii said,
27 November 2011 at 6:41 pm
Isalo NP – prices – the guide prices seem to have gone up somewhat since the Bradt guide was published, the full day Piscine Naturelle/ Cascade des Nymphs (7 hours) is an astonishing 113,000 AR. Illogically, the piscine only is 20,000 AR and the Cascade with the piscines noire et bleue is 45,000 AR (4 hours). The Canyon des Rats and Canyon des Makis combined is 50,000 AR (4 hours).
Jane Gamble said,
20 October 2011 at 11:05 am
Discoveries in the Caves of Anja
One of our greatest adventures in Madagascar was also our most unexpected. On a road trip along the RN7, we stopped at Anja Park, about 13 km south of Ambalavao. The site is considered sacred to the villagers there – for hundreds of years the Betsileo have entombed their ancestors in the high hillside caves and it is fascinating to know that even today these ancient burial sites are opened up to receive the bones of family members. According to our guide, the Betsileo also inhabited the caves in the area in the early 1800’s in an effort to escape enslavement at the hands of the invading Merina tribes from the north. Later, after French colonization, the Betsileo again inhabited the caves – but this time to escape the French system of taxation.
The purpose of our visit to Anja Park was to meet with a Peace Corp Volunteer who, unfortunately, was away at the time. Not wanting to waste the opportunity to see the resident ringtail lemurs and explore the rocky trails behind the village, we secured a local guide who took pride in explaining that Anja Park is owned by the community – not the government. The profits from tours go back to the community for development and education. This alone makes Anja Park worth a visit, but there is more…
We spotted plenty of ringtail lemurs and their babies just inside the park. We then entered some large open caves that the guide said were inhabited by the lemurs at night. He also explained that the “old people” used the caves back in the early 19th century. We spotted an interesting burial chambered blocked off with rocks and marked with a zebu skull, and then asked the guide if it was possible to go further into the caves. He looked surprised, but when we pulled out our headlamps he sensed we meant business.
Using only his cellphone for light, he led us further and further into the mountain caves. It dawned on me that he didn’t quite know where he was going, but he went forward and we followed. At one point he jumped into a deep rocky hole and after a moment said, “Ca va – come on down”. I flashed my light around and decided the worse that might happen would be a sprained ankle, so I jumped. Down in the hole, we saw the skeleton of a zebu and what appeared to be a cooking area covered with ashes. The guide looked surprised and said, “the kitchen of the old people.” Cool, I thought, and proceeded further into the cave.
Looking into a dark hole at the far end, I spotted something quite unexpected – a large clay water jug and rice bowl. “Look”, I said to the guide, who came up behind me and stopped cold. “That is from the old people”, he said, (and by ‘old’ he meant more than 200 hundred years old…) “You’ve never seen this before?” I asked. “No”, he said, “I have never been down here before.” Sensing this was my chance to pick up an antiquity a la Indiana Jones, I asked if I could buy the jug. “You can buy them in the market”, he explained. I said I wanted an old jug, and as it dawned on him what I meant, he said, “No – it must stay here.” Gold stars all around, I thought, except for the would-be plunderer.
When we emerged from the cave, I had a fabulous sense of discovery, even if I couldn’t lay claim. When I met with the Peace Corp volunteer later in Tana, I told her about the artifacts, and she said in two years she had never been back into the cave or seen the pots. We gave her a couple of head lamps to take to the guides and encouraged her to explore our find, in the hopes that perhaps they could develop a whole new tourist attraction on the interesting history of the Betsileo’s lives in the caves of Anja.
Derek said,
29 October 2010 at 7:36 pm
FIRES AT ISALO NATIONAL PARK
I just got to Madagascar at the start of October 2010, and many of the travellers (and guides) are talking about some recent fires at Isalo National Park. My driver/guide was even saying that the destruction from the fire was so bad that we shouldn’t even plan to stop there, despite passing by on RN7. The story I heard is that the park was not paying it’s share of the park fees to the supporting village, so the villagers decided to do something to get the park’s and tourists attention, so they set fire to the dry grasslands of the park. It was also rumored by some to even be as much as 80% of the park that burned. Despite some people saying it wasn’t worth seeing, I wanted to take a look for myself.
It must have been way exaggerated by some because the park is absolutely still worth visiting right now, and I don’t think the fire damage is nearly as bad as they made it sound. Or, perhaps the fire damaged portions of the park that are far less touristed. I went to the Canyon des Maki and Canyon des Rats, and I saw absolutely no damage or remnants of any big fire there, with grasslands and canyons completely intact. The rumor was also that the makis (ring tailed lemurs) were chased away by the fires, and we did only see a few sifaka, so who knows if that part is true or not. Regardless, these beautiful canyons and limestone formations are still worth visiting.
Later in the day, we went to the Piscine Naturelle (Natural Pool). From the car park, you have to walk 3 km in to get to the pool, and this is the only place where I saw a lot of damage. On the walk, you climb up to begin with, then level off to a plain with limestone outcrops in the distance, and then the trail heads down a bit, leading into the canyons and small canyon where the pool is located. Just as you start heading down, you have some great sweeping views over the canyon, and this is where you can see a huge swath of black running down the middle of the canyon where the grass had recently burned. It will probably recover after the next rainy season, but for now, it’s just a reminder of the problems here in Madagascar (whether the fire was intentional or just one set by farmers that got out of control), and it’s really not something that should prevent you from seeing the beautiful pool which is still completely, 100% unaffected with the same palms, green water, etc as every picture I’ve seen from the past. We also drove by some of the rock formations and the Fenetre later that afternoon and didn’t see any damage to the grasslands and palm trees of the area.
So if you hear rumors about the fires in Isalo, don’t let it stop you from visiting a beautiful and unique natural park, easily accessible from RN7. Just South of the park, there were a few more spots with some black grass where it had burned, and, as I said, there was probably some damage in the parts less visited by the one or two day stops of most tourists, but it’s not as though the park has been ruined. The drive just South of Ranohira, passing through the limestone formations is really amazing also.
Pablo & Itziar said,
6 August 2010 at 1:54 pm
RN12 – IHOSY TO TOLAGNARO (FORT DAUPHIN)
Transport
There are two ways of gettng from Ihosy to Tolagnaro: using the direct Tata that departs from Tana or using the taxi-brousses between towns, that seem to work on alternative days or if there are enough passengers (and an available taxi). It is possible to combinate both. If chosing the taxi brousse, expect long waits, specially in smaller villages. Also, there is the chance of catching a ride on any car passing, that will charge the taxi-brousse fare.
Ihosy-Betroka 12.000 – 7 hours. Dirt road in very poor condition.
Betroka-Isoanala 7.000 – 2,5 hours. Dirt road in very good condition and some tarred kilometres!
Isoanala-Bereketa 6.000 – 2,5 hours
Bereketa-Antanimora 8.000 – 4 to 5 hours. Dirt road in very poor condition.
Antanimora-Ambovombe 5.000 – 3 hours. Dirt road in poor condition.
Ambovombe-Tolagnaro 7.000 – 4 to 5 hours. Tarred road quickly deteriorating
IHOSY
Internet facilities at 50 ar/m opposite to the hotel Chez Eva, about 400 metres from the taxi brousse station.
Check out for the fried grasshoppers at the market.
- Where to stay
Les relais du Betsileo. Run down and, for the state of the rooms, very expensive. 30.000 ar for a double ensuit facilities would be ok if rooms where clean, fairly well painted, water didn’t leak all over the floor and mosquito nets did not have huge holes on them, which was the case at all… Disrecommended.
-Where to eat
Loads of small hotelys are waiting for customers behind the taxi brousse station. We tried the Madam Ndrasa Hotely, and food was superb. It is the green and yellow restaurant, just next door to Dasimo, the only one with no proper sign on it. Probably like in many others there, though.
BETROKA
Quite a large town on the RN13. Unnapealing but a good overnight stop to avoid travelling at night.
Well stocked of supplies. There are no banks in town, nearer are in Ihosy or Ambovombe. There is a gas station, selling Sans Pomble 95 and Diesel. Internet seems to be available from a shop near the market, at 60ar/min. When we asked the line was down.
Getting there
Taxi-Brousse depart daily from Ihosy. 12.000 ar. Trans Besady departs at 8-9am. Sonatra departs about 9-10 am. If no rain and no major problems, it takes 7 hours.
Alternatively, you can join the camion-brousse (Tata) coming all the way from Tana. Ask in Ihosy for arrival dates (it is not daily) and expected arrival times.
When coming from the north you will be dropped in town centre. To move on south, the cooperatives offices are near the market, on the main road heading south. The Trans Besady and Stato taxi-brousse to Beraketa seems to work on alternative days, departing usually at 8am (14.000 ar, 7 hours). A more frequent service goes daily to nearer Isoanala (7.000ar, 2.5 hours).
Where to stay
There are two main hotels:
- Hotel Trois Fleures. Located at the main street when coming from Ihosy. Right at the taxi-brousse drop-off. Very new and clean hotel. Small and simple rooms with toilet ensuite. Hot water provided on request, with buckets. 20.000ar. Best in town.
- Hotel des Bons Amis: nearby, but in a back street, it offers more spartan and basic accomodation. Rooms have shower (buckets) inside but the toilets are shared. 15.000ar.
Other local and smaller hotels will tell you to check Hotel Trois Fleures, probably assuming you really are looking for more comfort that they can offer.
- Where to eat
There are a few hotelys on the main road heading north. The most popular among locals is Chez Tantine (near hotel LesTrois Fleures), well priced good malagasy food. For breakfast go to the market area, where there are several stalls selling fresh made mofo, tasty baguettes and coffee.
ISOANALA
Small town with not much to offer (no banks, no gas station, few shops…) but with a quiet atmosphere, much more pleasant than Betroka. Nearly all the houses are made out of red mud bricks. In our oppinion, probably the most interesting along the route.
- Getting there
A couple of taxi-brousse depart daily from Betroka. 7.000 ar, 2.5 hours. The dirt road between Betroka and Isoanala is in good condition, even ocasionally tarred.
- Where to stay
Bel Air hotel, sign posted at the entrance of town when coming from Betroka. It has four simple and clean bungalows with ensuit shower (water provided in buckets) and shared malagasy toilets. 10.000 ar. Best option.
There is also a hotely near the church that has rooms: Hotely Nirina (6.000 ar). Malagasy comfort.
- Where to eat
There are a few hotelys on the street connecting north and south roads, serving malagasy food and snacks.
BERAKETA
Another small but lively village, with with no banks, no gas station (there used to beone, but it is no longer working) and few shops selling very basic products. Beautiful surroundings, go to the Commune and ask for a guide to walk you arround, specially if you want to visit any tombs. Post office on the main road.
- Getting there
Taxi-brousse on alternative days departing from Betroka. 14.000 ar, 5 hours. Our taxi-brousse from Isoanala departed on Friday at 7:00. 6.000ar.
- Where to stay
One of the hotelys between the main road and market offers probably very chambres.
- Where to eat
There are a few (3-4) hotelys on the main road serving malagasy food. Ny Marina Ihany is where we ate some great (but salty) Zebu Ravitoto.
ANTANIMORA
Little and not very atractive town, with with no banks, no gas station and few shops selling very basic products.
- Getting there
There are no regular taxi-brouse linking the town and Ambovombe. All locals rely on the Tata bus or hitchhiking on any car passing by, as we did. Fare: 5.000 ar.
- Where to stay
The hotely Madagascar has very simple rooms, no running water (5.000 and 10.000ar).
- Where to eat
The hotely Madagascar serves good malagasy food.
TOLAGNARO
Moving around
Prices of taxis are fixed, and they charged them per person. Moving around the city was 1.000 ar p.p. going to the airport 5.000 ar p.p. and reaching the new port 15.000 ar p.p.
Moving on
Price of rental of 4×4 is usually 150.000 ar per day. Fuel had to be added to this amount. Note that for any trip longer than one day they will charge for the return of the driver to Tolagnaro (usually at a faster speed). A 3-day trip to Vangaindrano (2 days to go, one to return) was 250.000 ar in gasoline (100 litres aprox). The trip to Tulear was quoted as 5 days return trip.
Where to stay
Chez Flora (chezflorafd@yahoo.fr): Located just a few meters down from the restaurant Oasis (Av. Galleni), this quiet hotel offers double rooms with ensuite facilities, including hot water. They also have an OK restaurant. Price 25.000-40.000ar according to the length of stay. We spent 6 days there and negotiated the cheaper rate. They rent 4×4 at fair prices.
Where to eat
The Miramar: is closed
Chez Georges (Le local): we found the setting fantastic and the food decent but clearly overpriced.
Mahavakony Annexe Restaurant: We loved the setting and views of this unprettencious restaurant. Food was always delicious, portions large and very good value for money. One day we felt like eating sardines and they bought and prepared them for us, even if they were not in the menu.
Le Recreat: Good food and nice setting. They also offered slightly different gasy dishes such as Fish Romazava. Unfortunatelly, they do not longer offer homemade icecream, due to the constant electricity cuts.
Patisserie Colbert: the well knowned Tana-based pattiserie has a new branch in La Kaletta hotel.
Other
ANGAP has moved in june 2010 to a new location. It is no longer behind the AirMadagascar offices but in the neighbourhood of Esokaka, more or less behind Chez Perline. They were useful offering information on how to visit Andohahela National Park, but they could not give us any map or leaflet to use.