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Hilary Bradt
Publisher, travel writer, lecturer and sculptor
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Hilary Bradt 
Contact details for Olô Bé Lodge in Andavadoaka: 32 11 221 59, reservation@olobe-lodge.com, http://www.olobe-lodge.com
During the pandemic, Mosa Park in Ifaty had to sell 20ha of its 70ha spiny forest reserve. This 20ha area has been cleared and a large part of it will apparently be used for the building of a hotel soon.
Researchers have discovered rock-cut structures dating from the 10th to 12th century AD in a remote part of Isalo National Park in southern Madagascar. The international team, led by Guido Schreurs of the University of Bern, say that the sculpted sandstone terraces and niches at the site in Teniky are atypical, and their layout and function remain mysterious. The site was estimated to be around 800-1,000 years old based on C-14 dating of fragments of Chinese and South Asian ceramics found there. In a paper just published in Azania, the journal of archaeological research in Africa, they note that the structures show striking similarities to Zoroastrian burial practices in Iran that go back to the 6th century AD, indicating possible Persia-Madagascar links as much as a millennium ago. Although it is already known that Arab traders were visiting Madagascar by the Middle Ages, a similarly ancient Persian connection would, if confirmed, represent a significant additional dimension to the understanding of the early colonisation of Madagascar. The puzzling question of why settlers from Persia would choose to settle in an area as far inland as Isalo also remains to be answered.
For more on this story, see https://www.science-et-vie.com/science-et-culture/archeologie/une-decouverte-archeologique-qui-bouleverse-lhistoire-de-madagascar-et-revele-des-liens-inattendus-avec-liran-178208.html
The former La Bernique in Toliara is now called Chez Alice, but the food is still very good.
Manafiafy Beach and Rainforest Lodge, north of Fort Dauphin, has closed down (in fact, it never reopened following the pandemic) owing to increasingly difficult access.
We have received the following warning from Polish travellers Magda & Jacek Izrailewski regarding a situation they recently encountered at Ranohira (the gateway town to Isalo National Park):
Thank you for posting our warning. Out suggested solution is to avoid meeting a bush-taxi in the center of Ranohira; just walk to the police checkpoint on the road at the entrance or exit of the town and take a bush-taxi there.
Best regards, Jacek Izrailewski
Rickshaw/pouse-pousse drivers in Toliara are mostly Antandroy people (from the far south) who come from the countryside to earn money, which they generally invest in zebu.
MCC’s Manafiafy Beach & Rainforest Lodge, to the north of Taolagnaro, has closed permanently due to increasing access difficulties. However, MCC’s other property, Mandrare River Camp (near Berenty), continues to be very popular.
Visitors to particularly hot and shadeless protected areas like Isalo National Park must consider seriously the level of their ability before setting out on a hike. There are unfortunately several deaths every year of those unable to cope with the heat. Regrettably, guides often try to persuade tourists to undertake longer (more lucrative) treks without proper consideration for the person’s physical condition. Try to start as early as possible to avoid the heat of the day (wildlife is also far more active at this time), take appropriate sun protection, and ensure you have more water than you think you might need. Never chance taking a smaller quantity of water just to avoid the burden of carrying it; local guides will never mind carrying an extra bottle or two for you.
This caution also applies to Anja Reserve, where the forest trails to see ringtails are short and easy, but local guides often try to encourage visitors to take longer treks onto the rocky mountainside where the trail is challenging underfoot and can be very hot.
One popular hot and exposed circuit at Isalo involves a section of the trail that is steep with many large steps. It is worth noting that this loop trail may be walked in either direction, so visitors who find steps easier to manage either upward or downward can request before setting out that their guide take them in the appropriate direction.
Almost 100 red-tailed tropicbirds were found dead on Nosy Ve earlier this month. This small uninhabited sacred island 3½km offshore from Anakao – a popular beach destination for tourists south of Toliara – is home to the only nesting colony of this beautiful species in Madagascar (estimated to number around 700 birds in total). The shocking discovery was reported by the Ministry of Fisheries the next day. They said that gendarmes and other officials were immediately sent to the area to carry out investigations, and that poisoning – whether deliberate or accidental – was being considered as a likely explanation. A group of nine fishermen and -women, who are believed to have stayed on the island just before the disaster, were arrested for questioning according to a Ministry spokesperson.
The 6th Vez’Tival celebration of Vezo culture will be held this December, from 17th to 20th, in Toliara. The festival will include a carnival, concert, beach sports, shows, and lots of music from local artists.
Renovation work on Route Nationale 13 (RN13) between Taolagnaro (Fort Dauphin) and Ambovombe began earlier this month, according to an announcement by Madagascar’s Ministry of Public Works.
Tule’art Recycling Museum in Toliara describes itself as the first museum of recycling in Madagascar, dedicated to marine environmental protection through proper waste management. It’s located on the port road roughly opposite Hyppocampo hotel, and features a great diversity of stunning art and crafts created from nothing more than garbage by locals. The project is an initiative of aid organisation Welthungerhilfe, in partnership with COMATO/SEMS/APMF, and financed by the German government. Open Mon–Thu 14.00–18.00, Fri 09.00–noon, closed w/ends; mob 032 03 503 12; email alda.fiasia@welthungerhilfe.de; Facebook Tule’art – Recycling Museum.
The once quite modest beachfront hotel Safari Vezo at Anakao has been upgraded in recent years, now boasting 24hr electricity and bungalows of a good standard, each with an en-suite hot shower.
Madagascar’s Tourism Ministry has plans for a “Dubai-style” high-level tourism development near to the fishing village of Anakao, south of Toliara, according to l’Express de Madagascar. The 450ha site is proposed to be developed with numerous hotels, villas, a golf course, restaurants, night clubs, shopping centres and leisure centres, as well as a new airport and marina. The massive development, located in one of the country’s most arid regions, is planned to be self-sufficient in drinking water and energy. All funding is to come from private investors, with the Malagasy state acting only as facilitator. A team from the ministry has already carried out a preliminary feasibility assessment in the area.
In an effort to reduce the problem of landfill in Madagascar, Toliara became the first city to implement a large-scale waste recycling plant in 2016. The Centre de Stockage et Valorisation de Déchets (CSVD; ‘waste storage and recovery centre’) is located some 7km from the city centre, employs about 60 people and can process up to 80 tonnes of waste per day.
The preferred spelling of Tsimanampetsotse National Park, now used by Madagascar National Parks, is Tsimanampetsotse (with an ‘e’). Previously it was most commonly written as Tsimanampetsotsa (with an ‘a’).