Madagascar Updates: Chapter 16

Madagascar, 11th edition

Please use the comments facility below to submit updates to chapter 16 (The West) of Madagascar (11th ed).

To comment on other chapters visit the main Madagascar Updates page.

You can order a copy of the Madagascar guide here.



  1. Roger Dawson said,

    25 October 2015 at 2:00 pm

    Hotel Neptune – A shanky over priced place. I have stayed in this hotel. With 105000 area after discount and free breakfast it was shocking. Poor facilities, dirty room, lack of light, gloomy attire told me even they offer 45000 MGA per night I will not stay there. The only fun is nice restaurant, disco and casino (narrow and congested to call it a casino). Need serious uplift to be seen as competitive .

  2. Roger Dawson said,

    25 October 2015 at 1:57 pm

    good page – what about Hotel Melville
    This is a nice and clean hotel with spacious rooms, friendly staff and absolute good price for the facilities offered. If you can offer being situated near market place with no noise however and fully guarded for incoming unwanted crowd with 35000 to 70000 MGA per night is a bargain. Cleanliness, good facilities, room size and low price. They do not take credit card however. But other than that it is nice. I stayed in other hotels but now stuck to it for my weekend trips to town.

  3. 30 July 2015 at 5:17 pm

    The bad section of Route Nationale 4 between Ambondromamy and Ankarafantsika is currently undergoing resurfacing work. At the time of writing (July 2015), the old road surface has been removed and is awaiting new tar to be laid.

  4. 30 July 2015 at 5:12 pm

    The big bridge over the Betsiboka river (about 23km after Maevatanana, if coming from Antananarivo) has been undergoing repairs for some time and only opens between 12:00 and 13:00 each day, so inevitably long queues form. Work is expected to be completed in September 2015.

  5. 30 July 2015 at 4:49 pm

    La Petite Plage (at Petite Plage, Amborovy, Mahajanga) is a small seafront restaurant and bar that also offers dbl bungalows (with fan) for just 35,000Ar.

  6. 30 July 2015 at 4:44 pm

    Apache (at Petite Plage, Amborovy, Mahajanga) has a 5-person bungalow for 100,000Ar and two 9-person bungalows for 200,000Ar, all with bathroom and kitchen facilities. Cleaning and cooking services can be provided for an additional fee. The owner has a friendly dog (named after the hotel – or perhaps vice versa). Contact: mob: 032 04 486 11 or 034 16 820 05; email

  7. 30 July 2015 at 4:25 pm

    La Terasse is a pleasant open beachfront restaurant and bar (closed Mondays) at Petite Plage, Amborovy, Mahajanga. They also have two bungalows with kitchenettes (150,000Ar and 200,000Ar). Jet-ski hire from 100,000Ar for 15min and towable tube rides 30,000Ar per person for 10min. Contact: mob: 032 82 180 85.

  8. 30 July 2015 at 4:14 pm

    Le Tamarinier (at Petite Plage, Amborovy, Mahajanga) is located right at the beach, with a sunset ocean view. It is a Malagasy family-run hotel opened in 2014. There are just two bungalows, two rooms and a bungalow with kitchenette, all with bathroom facilities and hot water. It is located at a point on the beach where local fishermen park their pirogues. Prices tpl 60,000Ar, 4-person 80,000Ar, or 150,000Ar with kitchenette. Contact: mob: 034 45 455 06 or 033 75 967 05; email:
    See our Facebook page for photos:

  9. 26 July 2015 at 12:00 pm

    Jack Zektzer reports: Service at the restaurant of Princesse de la Tsiribina Hotel in Miandrivazo stinks; we couldn’t get any food. It looks nice but is not recommended.

  10. 26 July 2015 at 12:00 pm

    An update from Jack Zektzer: As of June 2015, the road RN34 between Miandrivazo and Malaimbandy is good. (If you want a really bad road, try RN35 from Ambatofinandrahana to Malaimbandy!)

  11. Daniel Austin said,

    5 February 2015 at 11:53 am

    There is now (finally!) a decent hotel in Antsohihy. Hotel Sofia Belle Vue has 3 bungalows and 10 rooms costing 80,000Ar and 100,000Ar respectively. The spacious rooms have hot-water facilities and free Wi-Fi, and also on site are a reasonably priced restaurant and a 6x9m swimming pool.
    Contact: mob 032 02 503 77 or 032 40 503 77; email
    With thanks to Tsanta Fiderana for this information, and the photo which you can see on our Facebook page at

  12. said,

    4 December 2014 at 7:26 pm

    wish we had known about this when we were there 2 years ago . we stayed in a hotel with chalets and swimming pool, so past it’s sell by date it was sad to see. It appeared as if nothing had changed since the late 70’s. In it’s favour , the staff were very friendly and helpful . It must have been fantastic in its heyday. I think it was called amborovi lodge??

  13. Daniel Austin said,

    4 December 2014 at 12:28 am

    Campiland at Amborovy (Mahajanga) is mainly a campsite but also has a lodge that accommodates up to 5 people (2 upstairs, up a ladder, and 3 downstairs); the lower bed folds away to become a sofa and table. Clients can bring their own gas bottle or use the hotel’s for 7,800Ar/kg. Thanks to Ony Rakotoarivelo for this information.

  14. Daniel Austin said,

    4 December 2014 at 12:27 am

    The website address of Laguna Blue Resort (at Ampasilava near Andavadoaka) has changed to It has 16 bungalows, with sea views, en-suite hot water facilities and electricity. The new email address is but the mobile number remains 034 05 814 10; skype lagunabluresort-madagascar; Facebook

  15. Daniel Austin said,

    4 December 2014 at 12:06 am

    At Amborovy (Mahajanga), Green Club is a place to stay run by the Malagasy company Homeopharma (, best known for its natural health products and essential oils. The hotel has a wellbeing centre with massage (10,000Ar/45min) and a swimming pool (5,000/3,000Ar for adults/children). It is a great place to relax for those people who want somewhere quiet and tranquil, reports our local correspondent Ony Rakotoarivelo.
    A double bungalow costs 50,000Ar, or 60,000Ar with a kitchenette; a 4-person studio with kitchenette costs 80,000Ar; 4-person bungalows with kitchenette are 100,000Ar; 10-person bungalow with kitchen costs 160,000Ar. AC costs an additional 10,000Ar per night. Wi-Fi costs 30Ar/min.
    Contact: mob 034 49 151 59; web

  16. Daniel Austin said,

    4 December 2014 at 12:06 am

    There is now an entrance fee payable to visit Cirque Rouge. The ticket costs 5,000Ar and can be purchased at the kiosk at Grand Pavois. There is a plan to improve the road to Cirque Rouge and build toilets at the site.

  17. Daniel Austin said,

    9 October 2014 at 10:48 am

    The hotel Biaina in Antsohihy, listed on page 409 of the 11th edition of the guidebook, has recently closed down. Thanks to Julie Geels for this update.

  18. Daniel Austin said,

    9 September 2014 at 11:15 am

    Cotisse Transport, which has been running premium taxi-brousses between Toamasina and Tana since July last year, has added scheduled departures between Tana and Mahajanga to their operations, starting last month. The vehicles are comfortable and observe a self-imposed speed limit of 90kph. There are prompt departures in both directions at 07.00 and 17.00, price 32,000Ar per person. In Mahajanga they have a smart office near the Ambodivona taxi-brousse station, with TV and chairs for waiting passengers.
    Contact 032 11 027 10 (Tana), 032 11 027 11 (Mahajanga) or 032 11 027 35 (Toamasina); email; facebook

  19. 3 November 2013 at 5:09 am

    Camping is no longer allowed at Kirindy due to the fossa in the area. The park entrance-restaurant-bungalow area is part of the territory of several fossa and it is currently considered inappropriate to camp there as a result. The cheapest alternative is a dormitory bed for Ar30,000 (room sleeps up to 4 pp.). Showers associated with the dormitories are indeed bucket showers, as is often the case in Madagascar when camping or using budget accommodation. Fabulous night walk with lots of lemurs as well. Great place to visit. Make sure you stay overnight so you can do the night walk, and go out for an early morning walk too. As in most reserves in Madagascar, the guides are very knowledgeable and passionate about their work. The road from Morondava to Kirindy is good (dirt) and a 2WD vehicle will be fine if this is as far as you are going – ie not continuing to the Tsingy de Bemeraha for which a 4WD vehicle will definitely be required. This was August 2013.

  20. Daniel Austin said,

    30 November 2012 at 9:26 pm

    Between Morondava and Belo-sur-Mer is the small village of Ankevo-sur-Mer where a Belgian association called ADDA has set up a small number of community-run bungalows. Families in the village take turns being responsible for the bungalows, switching once a family has generated a certain amount of income. For more details contact Marcel Willems (tel: 95 928 41; email: The organisation also runs other community development projects in the area.

    • Alastair Cameron said,

      30 May 2013 at 8:10 pm

      We visited Ankevo by chance in May 2013 – it was wonderful. We were sailing in a pirogue to Belo but the wind was coming strong from the south and six hours after leaving Morondava our piroguier decided to call at Ankevo instead. We got a great welcome from Jean-Pierre, and he set us up with one of the bungalows for the night, and a village lady prepared our evening meal.
      The instituteur and guide, Mahatsanga, took us to see a sacred baobab about 4 km east of the village, beyond Ankevo-Terre; the village’s claim is that this is the baobab with the greatest girth in Madagascar, at 22.1m.
      Jean-Pierre can be contacted on 00 261 (0)33 07 489 10.
      We never got to Belo – and the wind changed direction overnight so it took us 7 hours to get back to Morondava!

      • 7 March 2015 at 7:09 pm

        In fact the biggest one is at a village called Andombiry, one to two hours from Morombe (you turn off near Belitsake). It has an impressive girth of 28 metres.

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