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Hilary Bradt
Publisher, travel writer, lecturer and sculptor
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Couleur Café, Antsirabe – has pet bunnies hopping around the grounds. Disappointed to find they only took local currency and not credit cards.
Having visited Ranomafana National Park, I asked to visit Centre ValBio which I’d read about Bradt Madagascar.
On arrival, our guide had extensive paperwork to complete, both at the security gate and reception. We amused ourselves by looking at the views from the balcony and the small shop with ethically made items which included lovely scarves, which I subsequently wished I’d bought.
Our guide, Caroline, was just starting her introduction when she pointed out Patricia Wright, the American founder of the centre and a leading expert in lemur. She’d just arrived on a trip from the US but spotted us and came over to say hello. She was most excited as her latest research paper had just been published, which proved man had existed in the area 10,000 years ago and not 2,000 as originally believed – this had been proved by human cuts in the bones of various animals which had been found and had been accurately dated in the US. She happily posed for photographs with an original aepyornis (elephant bird) egg taken from a nearby display cabinet. We left clutching a copy of the paper, which she signed, and their latest newsletters.
Cattle Market (page 210 – 11th edition) – this urges you to get to the zebu market at Ambalavo around 3am when the market gets going. We arrived at 2pm and found it still in full swing – well worth a visit bearing in mind how much of this animal you’ll be eating whilst you’re out there.
Hi!
In Fianar we found out that the Hotel Vatola is now called La Petite Bouffe.
Also the tour operator Sudmadatrek moved to Rue Printsy Ramaharo Ampasambazaha and the Air Madagascar office which is in the map doesn’t seem to exist anymore.
In Ranomafana, I dined at the Ihary. Unfriendly and grumpy service. They just cut the Wi-Fi connection I was using when they felt it was time for me to leave. Definitely not recommended!
We visited Anja Parc south of Ambalavao on RN7 leading a Swiss group in September 2017. It was a fantastic overall experience, and we have the highest respect of this community project.
Sadly it seems that there is some price scam going on, especially from the guide Marcel that is picking up tourists in Ambalavao or the residence “Varangue Betsileo” and leading them over a back way into the park. He charges an overall “guiding fee” before heading of for the walk, confirming that he will take care of all the entrance / community fee paying on the way – but then he leaves without passing at the park office. Comparing his rate to the official park rates it turned out that it was some “fantasy price”.
Please be avare of this, pay your entrance fee only at the official park office and check carefully, that the rates are according to the official price list. Ask for tickets or a receipt to avoid the spreading of corruption or misuse of the money that should reach the community for their social projects.
Thanks so much for this warning, Brigitte. Let’s hope that by making it public will put paid to this dishonesty. Hilary Bradt