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Hilary Bradt
Publisher, travel writer, lecturer and sculptor
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Hilary Bradt 
As of 2024, there is a new luxury beach resort called Voaara situated on Île Sainte‑Marie. Initially comprised 7 beachfront bungalows and a three‑bedroom ocean‑view villa with private pool, nestled along 1.5km of pristine white sand beach, plans are in the pipeline to expand up to 20 bungalows and 15 villas. The property is designed around a ‘barefoot luxury’ aesthetic: simple and elegant, but eco‑conscious, blending thatched traveller‑palm roofs, driftwood furnishings and gauzy linens. The food is said to be exquisite, under Spanish head chef Aleixandre Sarrion, who organises an imaginative array of beachside asado grills, cocktail evenings and open‑air cinema pizza nights at half a dozen dining venues. They pledge to donate a portion of profits and 50% of service fees to support community initiatives like schools, clinics and local conservation. Contact 032 89 016 00, info@voaara.com or reservations@voaara.com, https://voaara.com.
Researchers from the Center for Historic Shipwreck Preservation in Massachusetts believe they have found the remains of a Portuguese ship that was attacked and plundered by pirates off Ile Sainte Marie, Madagascar, in 1721. After 16 years of underwater studies on the site, they say new clues suggest that it is the 700-ton warship Nossa Senhora do Cabo. The ship is thought to have been en route from Goa to Lisbon carrying precious stones – including 110 diamonds, 250 emeralds, 20 rubies and 20 sapphires – as well as gold and silver bars, coins and silks, all amounting to a cargo valued at over US$138 million in today’s money. It is believed the ship had already been badly damaged in a storm and would likely have offered almost no resistance to the pirate attack.
Hell-Ville’s popular bar Nandipo is still open. They sell pizzas, including for takeaway.
In Ile Sainte Marie, I recently stayed at Sambatra and Ravoraha and both are still excellent.
Chez Regine (next to Ravoraha) is also very nice.
And the Italian food place in Ambodifotatra, La Cambusa, is excellent.
The El Condor catamaran ferry between Mahambo and Ile Sainte Marie, operated by Blue Marine, resumed last week after a hiatus of more than one year due to the pandemic crisis. The minibus shuttle service connecting Toamasina to the departure point at Mahambo also resumed from the same date. Website: bluemarine-madagascar.com
Weekly direct flights between Ile Sainte Marie airport and Reunion will recommence from 17 September 2022, operated by Air Austral.
Despite Covid and seasonal challenges, Chez Tity on Ile aux Nattes still has 2 or 3 habitable chambres and there were signs of repairs afoot while we were there. Finding backpacker-priced food in this beautiful spot did prove a challenge but there was a nearby lady who gave us our noodle/spaghetti supper for 3000Ar each…and the incredible zebu pizza at Lucky Dube was a worthwhile birthday treat, especially since they somehow produced a cake for my 15 year old! A super place.
My elder daughter and I enjoyed possibly the best pastries ever in the Bonne Heure patisserie just North of the harbour. Perfect with the wonderful street coffee from a lady nearby. The street coffee was terrific every morning, wherever we were during our 5 weeks – the pastries one of a kind!
There is now a raised walkway across to the Pirates’ Graveyard. Our delightful guide was informative on the mangroves and many other plants that we passed en route to the graveyard itself.